Shoe fitting



SHOE FITTING Filed Oct. 11, 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Mus.

March 15, 1960 H. v. s. MOTT SHOE FITTING 2 Shets-Sheet 2 Filed Oct. 11, 1957 United tates Patent SHOE FITTING Howard Van Slyck Mott, Union'Star, Mo., assignor to.

Herbert C. Mott, Donald'L. Mott, identical with Don- I alil V. S. Mott and Howard L.-Mott, identical with Howard'V. S. Mott, Jr.

Application 0ctoher 11, 1957, SeriaPNo. 689,728

3 Claims. 61. 12-142 This is a continuation-impart of application Serial No;

399,490; filed December 21, 1953 and relates to themanu shoes basic to the characteristic arch triangularity of feet.

Conventional shoes are made on lasts, which are considered the most important element in making shoes, to properly fit feet they are fitted to. However, a last model maker follows custom, personal experience and most particularly the chart of standard last measurements, adopted in 1887, which is directly related to the sizing theory of heel to'toe (overall) foot length of over 600 years ago. A completed last model is accurately checked by the standard last-stick for overall length. Girths are accurately checked by the last tape, takenat the inner ball, waist and instep areas within the length dimension, transversely of the central last length. It is most noteworthy that the width of insoles, lasts and shoes is determined by'a girth measurement. Particularly that the last tape is positioned transversely of last length, from wherever the inner width may be positioned, to vthe wide part (laterally), which is somewhere along the length of the little or fifth toe. And that the waist measurement is also taken transversely about a thumbs breadth or an inch. heelwardly from wherever the inner ball may be positioned, which infers that the narrow part of feet is always that distance heelwardly from inner width, but anatomically and naturally not so, because of natural variations of arch lengths of feet. From a model last the various sizes and widths are graded by the increment for sizes (lengths) of /3 inch added to the heel to toe tip length, for three sizes in an inch. For example, mens shoes. size 6, the length is inches; size 7, is 10 /3 inches; and the ball girth is for an A width 7% inches; the B width is 8 inches of girth,

so that the actual width increases 35 inch per width laterally, however due to style or choice it may be inch.

It is most noteworthy that after a model last issatis factory, then the model insole pattern is made in exact conformity to the last bottom shape. And that conventional insoles have only the two dimensions of length and width. Also by these principles there are no dimensions of nor for the natural triangular shape of feet, formed by the foots arch.

One object of this invention is to improve: the fitting qualities of footwear" to feet.

Another object is to provide insole patterns whose shape and dimensions are determined from the triangular shapes of the foots arch and having adequate toe space.

Another objeet is to provide insole patterns having three arch dimensions and a toe space dimension.

Another object is to provide lasts whose bottom shape 2,928,110 tented Mar 15,, 1 960.

and dimensions are determined exactly from insole patterns, which are basic to the foots arch dimensions and whose shape and dimensions are determined from foot:

triangularity.

Another object is to'provide a method of: grading and;

sizing insole patterns, lasts and shoes made therefrom,-

' basic to arch dimensions of feet.

Other objects will be'recognized by those schooled ina the'art, upon reading and studying the appended drawmgs:

Fig. 1: is a diagram of a womens insole pattern dimen-.

sioned in accordance with the invention and illustrating in the same family,with their indicated sizes of only one Width, proportioned in accordance with this invention. Although not shown the sizes of each member of a family can be indicated by numerals and fractions of an inch, or in the-metric system, andanapex (arch) dimensionhaving a symbol, as athird dimension.

Fig. 3 is a diagramshowing a small size insole pattern of'a family superposed on a larger member'of the same family in a different manner to illustrate the constance ofthe arch apex dimension (recession) in all members'of the same family, regardlessof size, width or style.

7 Fig. 4 is a diagram illustrating a mans shoe made from an insole pattern and last proportioned in accordance with this invention, carrying visible, removable indexes having the necessary designated fitting dimensions, positioned to its archqdimensions, on'the' upper material from-itsinsole and last dimen'sio'ns,to facilitate visual shoe fitting to feet, in accordance with this invention.

' New expressions are defined to clarify discussion of this invention: 9

Arch length is thedimension taken at right angles between the medial and lateral'aspects, at the sides of the heads (distal ends) of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to the long leg of the right angled corner, then measured from these loci along the long leg to the vertex of the corner; these two pointsfrepresent the distal ends of the inner and outer longitudinal arches.

Arch width is the dimension taken between the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads (distal ends of the first and fifth metatarsal bones.

Arch apex (recession) measurement or dimension is the dimension taken with the inside of the foot at the heel and first metatarsal bone tangent with a straight edge, measuring at right angles from the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to the straight edge, measuring the distance between the medial and lateral metatarsal heads, and measuring the distance between these two loci along the straight edge.

Toe space is the dimension taken along the long leg of the corner between the arch length dimension and the allowed distance forwardly from the longest toes.

Family refers to all members of the sizes and width's. in a particular style of insoles, lasts and shoes.

It is to be noted that the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone (distal end), anatomically represents the distal end of the outer longitudinal arch, the lateral aspect of arch width, and is also the area of apexity of arch triangularity, with the foot positioned and measured along the long leg of a right angled corner. Also that these dimensions include the soft tissues surrounding the'boney framework above the ground. Also that medial refers to the left side of the right foot and lateral refers to the right side of the right foot, or the opposite for the left foot. A conventionally made shoe may fit a foot with reasonable comfort, but the same designated sized shoe and width is harmful to another foot whose measurements'are the same. In fact shoes from the same maker differ in proportions from different styles but are desigdated the same; and shoes from a different source vary fromtheother maker, although designated the same. This is because the principles of only an overall (heel to toe) foot length dimension and making 'widths from the girth measurements, .do. not provide for the natural triangular shape of feet, particularly the arches plus adequate toe space. Consequently practically all shoes do not fit correctly the natural arch lengths, arch widths, and having no arch apex dimension, fitting the areas as to where lateral width may be is nil; although by chance the inner ball may be correct to a foot. And not having triangular arch dimensions within the overall foot length, the girth area measurements are insufficient and disproportioned in the last and shoe, to feet, although there is proper overall length. .1 To correct such faults and improve fitting qualities of footwear to feet, the method of this invention is accomplished. Feet are positioned in a right angled corner, the two legs of which serve as staple base measuring abutments, and to which non-intersecting measuring lines are positioned at right angles and parallel to the long leg respectively, of the corner. This is illustrated in Fig. 1 of the appended drawings and by a womens insole pattern or could as well be a foot or shoe, positioned for measuring arch triangularity and adequate toe space dimensions. From numerous X-ray measurementsof feet so positioned, I have determined that in groups of adult feet of different nominal heel to toe lengths, the arch length. and arch width, and arch apexity vary very substantially in the different groups, within the nominal same overall lengths. The natural triangular shape of feet, particularly the arches, reveals an arch apex dimension, which indicates where the lateral foot width may be withm the arch length. and is a new natural measurement of feet, easily applicable to insoles. lasts and shoes made therefrom. The method of determining it is described hereinbefore. The apex dimension is found to be greater in adult feet than teenagers and children; it is naturally present and characteristic of human feet (abnormalities excepted). It is illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3 by points 2-5-7 of the appended drawings. Because of its natural variations I optionally apply a one inch dimension for adult insoles, lasts and shoes, 4 inch for teenagers andVz inch for children. And when applied to insole patterns, lasts and shoes it remains as a constant dimension in all members of a family, regardless of size width or style, illustrated in Fig. 3 of the appended drawings, by the two different sized insoles in the same family. It is to be indicated by a symbol, on insoles, lasts and shoes made therefrom, additionally to the size and width dimensions. However according to this invention it may be applied as determined, but not remain as a constant new dimension, and in adult footwear it is not to be originally applied to insoles, last and shoes to be less than inch.

Feet so positioned and measured with the dimensions applied to the shoe making elements and shoes, provides for animproved shape of shoes to feet,'and reveals four important dimensions of feet, easily applicable to the shoe making elements andshoes for-improved fitting qualities to feet: (1) arch length; (2) 'a'rch Width; (3)

arch apex (recession (4) toe space. 'It is most important that insoles, lasts and shoes made therefrom be of proper shape, having definite arch dimensions with adequate toe space, and graded and sized basic to arch lengths, arch widths and having an arch apex dimension, as accurately as possible to all natural arch dimensions and allowed toe space of feet; thereby creating a cooperative shape and function between shoes and feet. Because from rest the foot elongates and widens when body weight is imposed to it from rest. walking, at the finish of a step, the heel is elevated from the ground and all body weight and force is transmitted through the arches, to the heads (distal ends) of the five metatarsal bones of the longitudinal arches, causing a vertically hinge-like motion at arch length, width and apexity, and the toes are parallel with the shoe insole or ground. Footwear so made, the critical areas of the three arch dimensions and toe space, properly determined when fitting, will coincide more accurately to the arch dimensions of feet, and the areas and distances of the girth measurements to lastsare applied accordingly, for proper snugness to feet. There is no adjustment by the shoe parts accommodating'this critical fitting area. It must be initially incorporated in the shoe making elements, especially the insole pattern, to meet the proper requirements of shoe adaptability to feet without harm and unnecessary pressures by footwear to feet.

To accomplish such improvements in accordance with this invention, a model insole pattern shall first be provided having three arch dimensions and adequate toe space,

determined from the natural shape and arch dimensions of I serves as a templet to exactly determine the dimensions and shape of a corresponding last bottom. And shoes made on such lasts shall have the proper insole, foot shape and arch dimensions to coincide substantially with the shape and arch dimensions of feet, they are fitted to. And each insole, last and shoe made therefrom shall be marked with its particular arch length (size) dimen- 'sion, an arch width and arch apex (recession) dimen-- s'ion. in accordance with this invention a model insole pattern shall be provided, having designated arch length (size), arch width, arch apex dimensions with toe space,

made of a proper substance to maintain its dimensions and subject to repeated usage, in determining proper last bottom shape and arch dimensions of a model last.

In accordance with this invention, insole patterns, lasts and shoes made therefrom shall be graded and sized basic to arch length and arch width of feet. A determined size is illustrated in Fig. 1 of the appended drawings, by a womans insole pattern, in which points indiced S25 indicate arch length of a foot, the points concerned determining a size (length) of an insole, last, shoe or foot similarly measured. Indice S represents the rear curve of the heel, tangent with the short leg of the corner SM; indice 2 represents the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone, tangent with the long leg HS, the dimension between S-2 is the inner arch length of a foot; indice 5 represents the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone, of the outer arch length, line 57 to HS is the locus of outer arch length, thence both longitudinal arch distances are determined along HS between their respective loci and the vertex of the corner S, for the complete arch length (size) by points indiced S25. For example, the illustrated insole pattern size '(arch length) dimension inFig. 1 is 16% inches and 5% inchesv re:

And in natural assemmetric system of measuring, as conventionally'done or in. fractions of ah inch: to designate its foot fitting dimensions for sizes; the same principle applies in sizing andgrading allother age groups. This principle has nought to dofwith the prior art of grading andfsizing. Neither is itconcerned with heel shape, only that; such be comfortable to a foot, nor' with toe shape. style, only insofar as there is proper toe length space, forwardly from. arch length. Forgrading increment I optionally usefii inch. between sizes in a family insoles. lasts and shoes, basic. to. arch lengths of feet. For example, in FigL l of the appendeddrawings, the womens insole. pattern 10, the size. is 6 inches and inches respectively, and. optionally a conventional size 3; then size 4 would'be 6%; inches and 5% inches respectively; or for the next smaller as a size 2, would be 637 inches and.5 inches respectively. And Fig. 2' of the appended drawings illustrates only 8 different sizes of a family in a 5 width. for example, with each smaller sizev superposed on. the next larger, graded basic to arch lengths for various dimensioned arch lengths of feet. be understood other size symbols may be used than asof conventionally used to designate the particular s zes, widths and apexityof shoe making elements and. shoes. Also that smaller and larger sizes and widths could as well'be shown for a complete family. The complete insole outline of the size 3' and the larger size 10 illustrate that the toe space dimension extends with the his It is to tern, last or shoein a family, resulting in Splus full sizes per inch, which is numerically and finitely more accurate to feet than as of the prior art theory. By this improved method of grading and sizing footwear to arch dimensions of feet, fitting techniques are simplified and are more accurately accomplished. For any normal adult can see, palpate and measure the natural boney'landmarks of the foots arch and select a shoe for the di mensi'oned size arch the foot demands, when similarly measured, or judge such by appropriate means provided to a shoe. Furthermore this method of sizing and grading'footwear provides a new, more accurate standard of providing and fitting shoes to feet, for direct linear means are used to provide proper dimensions of the foots arch. And footwear likewise proportioned and desigthe inner and outer longitudinal arch distances, for a 7 combined arch length, by points indiced S-2--5; also by which the apex arch dimension is determined between points 25-7; and along which adequate toe space is determined forwardly from arch length between points 25-3. The linear arch width is line indiced 4, be:

tween points 2-5 from HS to a parallel measuring line V' to HS. The foot so positioned, point 1 is the rear curve of the heel tangent with the short leg of the comer SM-;.;point 6 is the inside aspect. of the heel tangent'withthe long leg HS; point 7' is at; right angles to Hsibetweenthe lateralaspect at the side of the: head of-the'fifthrmetatarsal bone point 5,; tea V line along HSQ'aS I a-locus for outer arch length, lateral point of arch width, to determine the arch apex dimension along HS; point 2 is the locus of tangency of the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone, of the inner longitudinal arch; along as, in relation. to a v intrauterine, an

the distance between points. 2--5 'onf HS'to the va tex. S is arch length, and the distance'from point 7 to 2 is. the. apex arch dimension; point 3 shows adequate toe space forwardly from arch length,fmeasuredalong. HS; point 5 is the lateral, aspect at the side of the head. of the fifth metatarsal bone, of. outer arch length, the lateral arch width and point of apexity of the arch, within overall. foot length. Line 5-7 measures foot width at right angles from HS to a parallel. measuring line V, and point.7 the locus on HS' is measured to the vertex 8' for part of the arch length, and forwardly to point'2 to measure the distance of arch apexity along HS. It is to be recognized the V measuring lines. may extend from 2 to 15 inches, and the V lines may be less than two or more than five inches. The V.measuring lines are parallel with HS, serving to measure. linear foot width, part of arch length,- and the part of arch apexity for an insole, last, shoe or foot, by the points described. The V' and V measuring lines could also be designated as of the metric system, Roman numerals, numerals and letters, or in fractions of inches to designate thedimensions. of-shoe making elements, shoes or feet for sizes, widths and apexity.

Fig. 2 represents. part of a family of insole patterns indiced 10, positioned in a right angled corner HS, SM. Only 8 sizes of womens insolepatterns are shown, illus trating smaller sizes superposed on the next larger in the same family, and could as well be childrens or mens insoles, for the shape and dimensions of arch lengths (sizes), arch width and direction of apexity of the arches, of various sizes for feet in a conventionally termed B width. The small full outline of size 3B andthe larger size 10B indiced 10 show that adequate'toe space isprovided in a family and extends with the arch length grade increment for sizes, plus the extension factor. The anguiated lines across the insolesrepresent' the arch width lines indiced 4 in Fig. 1, as well as arch lengths within overall lengths, and the direction of arch apexity. The

consecutive numerals indicate the various sizes in a shown with the size and width dimensions,.however shall havea symbolindicating it, additionally to size and width dimensions of insoles, lasts and shoes.

Fig. 3 illustrates the constancy of the arch apex dimensionmaintained in a small and larger size insole pattern, or could as well be a last or shoe, indiced 10 of only one width of a family, point 2 represents the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone, point- 5 the lateral aspect. at the sideof the head' of. the fifth metatarsal bone, of. the small and larger insole pattern of the same family, superposed equally at point'2, hnes 4 represent the extent and direction of. arch width of both sized insoles between points 25; line 57'is at right angles from the extreme lateral borders of the insole width areas, and the distancebetween points 7-2' is the apex arch dimension. It is to be noted that regardless of size or width the arch apex dimension remains constant in the smaller and larger sizes and the narrow and wider widths; also the difference in angularity of arch width line 4, between the two insoles from point 2, extending,

to the lateral periferies, although of the same arch apex dimension. The arch apex dimension is to be indicated on shoe-making elements and shoes as athird dimension relative to the foots. arch, and'to'have a particular symbol, as it locates where arch width is within the arch length dimension. Q

Fig. 4- illustrates-a manfs shoe or could. aswelllb'e, a childs or womens shoe indiced 40',wiise upper material from an insole pattern having three arch dimensions and toe space, determined from feet. Externally and removable from the shoe upper material are positioned indexes 41 at the periferies positioned coinciding to where the three arch dimensions of the shoe are located from its insole pattern and last, within the overall shoe length. The indexes serve not only that function but also carry that particular shoes fitting dimensions for a foot, plainly readable for size, width and apexity, as footwear requires designated dimensions for a foot, in selecting such for different dimensions of feet.

Two methods of making shoes require no insole pattern. In other methods the upper material is fastened to the required insole pattern inthe pull-over operation. In whatever methods employed, the insole pattern provided in accordance with this invention, and applied for determining last bottom shape and arch dimensions with adequate toe space, relative to feet assures proper fitting qualities of footwear to feet. The areas of arch lengths, widths and apexity being initially incorporated to shoe making elements, these critical areas are more accurately fitted and naturally adaptive to the same area, with improved girth dimensions and direction to coincide with feet.

In accordance with this invention, the insole pattern is the most important shoe making element. For a model insole patterns shape and three arch dimensions are applied from natural foot dimensions, basic to the triangularity of feet, and by the method herein described assures accuracy in determining the shape and dimensions of lasts for, shoes, to be made thereon, whatever that method may be. And when graded and sized basic to natural linear arch dimensions and maintaining natural triangularity relative to feet, there is definite improvement of shoe fitting qualities to feet.

Footwear graded and sized in accordance with this invention provides for definite economy of shoe making materials for a family, as there are no half sizes needed nor required, in any classification of footwear as conventionally classified to age groups for style purposes. It is contemplated in accordance with this invention for even greater accuracy for fitting qualities, feasible to have two separate toe space dimensions to a size in the same family. Also it is feasible that there be two separate arch apex dimensions, to the same size in a family. in which cases that feature is designated on the shoe making elements and shoes for each factor, as a special indication of a fourth dimension in a style or special as the third dimension.

Another advantage in this invention is that insofar as footwear requires designated size and width symbols relative to feet, that such also serve the purpose of indicat ing, where on a shoe the fitting areas are, within overall shoe length, to a foot. Therefore as shown in Fig. 4 of the appended drawings, indexes carrying a shoes particular fitting dimensions, are removably attached to the shoe upper material, plainly visible. So positioned at the periferies externally, coincident with that particular shoes insole pattern and last arch fitting dimensions for a foots particular arch dimensions in three respects as hereinbefore described. Also the shoes designated fitting dimensions may be indited of a contrasting substance to the shoe material, and chemically or physically removed. In transparent footwear the fitting designations may be carried in proper positions on the insole pattern or shoe bottom part.

While this invention has been specifically described with reference to a womans insole pattern, it is to be distinctly understood that the toe part, heel part and the shank are subject to wide variations without affecting the principles of this invention, or results thereby accomplished. Consequently, it is to be distinctly understood that such modifications and variations of the embodiment hereinbefore described as may present themselves to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of this invention by and the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described theinvention, what is claimed and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing a series of sized lasts from a last on which the following points have been established, (1) the line of tangency along the inside of the heel and of the medial aspect in the area of the first metatarsal bone of the wearer of a shoe built thereon, (2) the point of tangency of the first metatarsal bone with this line, and (3) the point of tangency of the outside aspect of the fifth metatarsal with a line parallel to the first line, drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsals to establish an angle with the line tangent to the inside of the. heel and the first metatarsal, forming a series of lasts of varying length from the selected last while maintaining the angle between the tangent line and the line through the points of tangency constant, and designating the size of each member of theseries by the distance from the back heel end to the two points of tangency of the metatarsals.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing a series of sized insole patterns from an insole pattern on which the following points have been established, (1) the line of'tangency along the inside of the heel and the medial aspect in the area of the first metatarsalbone of the wearer of a shoe built thereon, (2) the point of tangency of the first metatarsal bone with this line, and (3) the point of tangency of the outside aspect of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel to the first line, drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to establish an angle with the line tangent to the inside of the heel and first metatarsal, forming a series of insole patterns of varying length from the selected insole pattern while maintaining the anglebetween the tangent line and the line through the points. of tangency constant, and designating the size of each member of the series by the distance from the back heel end to the two points of tangency of the metatarsals.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing a series of sized shoes from a series of lasts from a last having the following established points, 1) the line of tangency along the inside of the heel and at the medial aspect in the area of the head of the first metatarsal bone of the wearer of a shoe built thereon, (2) the point of tangency of the first metatarsal bone with this line, (3) the point of tangency of the outside aspect at the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel to the first line, drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsals to establish an angle with the line tangent to the inside of the heel and the first metatarsal, forming a series of lasts varying in length from the selected last while maintaining the angle between the tangent line and the line through the points of tangency constant, and constructing on said series of lasts a series of shoes of varying length having said tangent points and constant angle, and designating the size of each member,

of the series of shoes by the distance from the back heel end to the two points of tangency of the metatarsals.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,120,489 Hilgert Dec. 8, 1914 1,839,204 De Witt Jan. 5, 1932 2,029,553 Bartschi et al Feb. 4, 1936 2,109,780 Mott Mar. 1,1938 2,323,539 Hyland et al. July 6, 1943 2,835,908 Mott May 27, 1958 

